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Grana Padano

International Day of Italian Cuisines 2010



The list: chefs, restaurants and institutions joining and supporting IDIC 2010

 

The number of chefs and restaurants joining our International Day of Italian Cuisines celebration grows larger every year. We will be updating this list as chefs, restaurants, institutions get on board our global ola that will reach its peak on January 17th 2010 when all around the globe people will be cooking and tasting the real Tagliatelle al ragù alla Bolognese.

reference: (*) chefs, restaurants and institutions joining itchefs-GVCI members in the celebration of the IDIC 2010

 

• ARGENTINA

Donato de Santis, Bruni Restaurant, Buenos Aires
Sebastian Rivas Proia, Amici Miei Ristorante, Buenos Aires
Adrian Soldano, Capo Restaurant, Buenos Aires

• BRAZIL

Fabio Boschero, Hilton São Paulo Morumbi, São Paulo
Francesco Carli, Hotel Copacabana Palace, Rio de Janeiro
Nicola Finamore, Hotel Cipriani Restaurant- Copacabana Palace Hotel, Rio de Janeiro
Francesco Mammola, Ristorante Toscanelli- Sagu Mini Resort, Ilha Grande, Rio de Janeiro
Luigi Pasculli, Teatro Fellini Restaurant, Arraial D´Ajuda
Elena Ruocco, Sitio do Moinho Organic Farm, Rio de Janeiro

• CANADA

Gabriele Paganelli, Romagna Mia Restaurant, Toronto
Gianni Poggio, Da Gianni & Maria Trattoria, Toronto
Claudio Rossi, Studio Cafe- Four Seasons Hotel, Toronto
Gianpiero Tondina, Copper Creek Golf Club, Kleinburg

• CARIBBEAN

Ignazio Podda, Unique Villas of the Caribbean, JAMAICA
Antonio Tardi, Italian Village Beaches, TURKS AND CAICOS

• CHILE

Roberto Illari, Bel Paese Restaurant, Santiago de Chile
Walter Monticelli, Caprese Restaurant, Santiago de Chile

• ECUADOR

Luigi Passano, Riviera Restaurant, Guayaquil

• GUATEMALA

Giuseppe Atzori, Hotel Vista Real, Guatemala City

• MEXICO

Silvia Bernardini, L'Invito Restaurant, Veracruz
Walter El Nagar, Nonna Rosa Pasta Factory, San Miguel de Allende
Umberto Fregoni, Ristorante Cabiria, Mexico City
Gastronomia Gusto Di Vino, Mexico City
Antonio Lotito, La Pasta Restaurant, Zapopan, Jalisco
Alessandro Mancuso, Maravia Resort, La Paz, Baja California

• PUERTO RICO

Alberto Gianati, Casa Italia Restaurant, San Juan de Puerto Rico

• UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

Carlo Allesina, Cibus Restaurant, Dallas
Gaetano Ascione,
Ristorante Gaetano, Miami
Enrico Bazzoni
, Culinary Liaisons, New York
Ivan Beacco, Testaccio Restaurant, New York
Matteo Boglione, Gradisca Restaurant, New York
Lorenzo Boni, Barilla USA Corporate Chef, Chicago
Paola Bottero, Paola´s Restaurant, New York
Fabio Cappuccini, Bella Gioia Milano Restaurant, Portaland
Cesare Casella, Italian Culinary Academy, New York
Mario Cassineri, Bice Restaurant, San Diego
Andrea Cavaliere, Cecconis Restaurant, West Hollywood
Luca Cesarini, Private Party, Los Angeles
Vincent Chirico, Vai Restaurant, New York
Anthony Daniele, Mario´s Italian Steakhouse & Catering & Bazil, NY
Chris DeLuna, Naples 45 Restaurant, New York
Luca Di Pietro, Tarallucci & Vino Restaurant, NY
Etcetera Etcetera Restaurant, New York
Odette Fada, SD26 Restaurant, New York
Francesco Farris, guest Chef Avanti Restaurant, Dallas
Rossano Giannini, Lanterna Tuscan Bistro, Nyack
Salvatore Gisellu
, Urban Crust Restaurant, Plano Texas *
Tony Guglielmelli, Panevino Restaurant, New York
Patti Jackson, I trulli Restaurant, New York
Cesare Lanfranconi, Spezie Restaurant, Washington
Michele Lomonaco, Porterhouse Restaurant, New York
Egidiana & Sirio Maccioni, Osteria del Circo, NY
Aldo Martinelli, Fancy Food Show, San Francisco
Deborah Mele, www.italianfoodforever.com, New York
Jon Mudder, Bellavitae Restaurant, New York
Max Taxiera, Beppe Restaurant, NY
Fabio Trabocchi, Four Seasons Restaurant, New York
Viceversa Restaurant, new York

 

• ALBANIA

Agostino Suriano, Villa Logoreci Restaurant, Tirana

• DENMARK

Maurizio Mosconi, Italy & Italy Restaurant, Ringsted

• BELGIUM

Patrick Smart, Trattoria Alloro, Ieper, West Flanders

• FRANCE

Giorgio de Chirico, Findi Restaurant, Paris
Giulio Freschi, chef at the Italian Embassy, Paris
Roberta Tringale, Casa Vigata Restaurant, Paris

• GERMANY

Sante de Santis (and Roland Schuller *), Er Cuppolone-San Pietro Gastro Restaurant, Stuttgart

• GREECE

Luigi Favorito, Casa Donato Restaurant, Heraklion, Crete
Angelo Saracini, Athens

• ITALY

Andrea Alfieri, Sempione 42 Restaurant, Milano
Miriano Baldacci & Monica Debinska, 7 Archi Restaurant, Bologna
Davide Barbuzza, Antica Osteria Bottega, Bologna *
Fabrizio Barontini, Il Gallo Rosso Restaurant, Iseo (Brescia)
Giorgio Broggini, Osteria di Porta Cicca, Milano
Nicola Cavallaro, Al San Cristoforo Restaurant, Milano
Claudio Ceriotti, Il Maragasc Restaurant, Legnano (MI)
Andrea Cristofoletto, EAT Restaurant in Hollywood & Bollywood, S. Benedetto del Tronto
Marco Epifani & Dall´Argine Family, Trattoria del Cacciatore, Frassinara (PARMA)
Mauro Fabbri, Diana Restaurant, Bologna *
Angelo Franchini, Torre del Monte Relais, Todi
Matteo Francini, Motel Europa Restaurant, Domodossola
Giacomo Gallina, Dolce & Gabbana Gold Restaurant and Magic Bar, Milano
Giovanni Grasso & Igor Macchia, La Credenza Restaurant, San Maurizio Canavese, Torino
Gianfelice Guerrini, Chef Ferrari F.1 Team, Maranello
Lady Chef Agostina, La Bucaccia Restaurant, Cortona (Arezzo)
Emanuele Lattanzi, Petito Restaurant, Forlì
Franco Luise, Aromi Restaurant - Hilton Molino Stucky, Venice
Luciano Lombardi, Osteria Vigna del Mar, Monopoli (Ba)
Samuele Lué, Ami_Bar Restaurant Lounge, Milano
Maria Luisa Maser, Ristorante Ca´Maser, Brianzé (Vicenza)
Paolo Montiglio and the students of the IPSAR, Arona (Novara)
Mario Musoni, Ristorante Al Pino, Montescano (PV)
Massimiliano Telloli, Ristorante Stallo del Pomodoro, Modena
Fabio Peiti, Hotel Lac Salin SPA and Mountain Resort, Livigno
Andrea Pini, L´Ustareja di Du Butò Restaurant, Solarolo (RA)
Fabio Pisani & Alessandro Negrini, Il Luogo Di Aimo e Nadia Restaurant, Milano
Pasquale Porcelli, Fornello da Ricci, Ceglie Messapica (Brindisi)
Anna Prandoni, La cucina Italiana online, Milano *
Piero Pulli, Canonico Restaurant, Carignano Torino
Leonardo Russi, NUVò Restaurant, Milano
Marco Rocco, Ristorante Leggero, Turbigo (Milano)
Natalino Sabato, Ristorante Decò, Arquata Scrivia (AL)
Caludio Sadler, Chic´n Quick Trattoria Moderna, Milano
Claudio Santin, Ristorante Vieux Braconnier, Breuil Cervinia (AO)
Gisberto Tamburini, Trattoria Boboli, Firenze

• MONACO

Gino Razzano, M.Y. SAI RAM, Montecarlo

• NETHERLANDS

Fabio Cappellano, Il Tartufo Restaurant, Delft
Peppe Cappellano, La Vita è Bella Restaurant, Rotterdam
Saro Pulvirenti, That’s Amore Restaurant, Den Haag

• RUSSIA

Ezequiel Barbuto, Piccolino Restaurant, Moscow
Gusto- Mediterranean Restaurant, Ekaterinburg
Pietro Rongoni, La Serenata Restaurant, Moscow
Francesco Spampinato, Sky Café - Italian Lounge Restaurant, Ekaterinburg
Antonio Voci, Il Borsalino Restaurant, Saint Petersburg

• SPAIN

Andrea Tumbarello, Don Giovanni Restaurante, Madrid (5)
Enrica Barni & Angie Musci, Accademia del Gusto, Madrid

• SWITZERLAND

Nicola Stante, La Tavola Restaurant, Brütisselen

• TURKEY

Daniel Evangelista, Ramada Palace Hotel, Ankara
Antonio Lombardi, Mezzaluna Restaurant, Istanbul
Giuseppe Pressani, Paper Moon Milano Restaurant, Istanbul

 

• EGYPT

Vincenzo Guglielmi, Swiss Inn Dream Resort, Taba
Michelle Martinelli, Private Chef, Cairo
Giacomo Turzo, Domina Coral Bay Hotel Resort Spa & Casino, Sharm el Sheikh

• MAURITIUS

Stefano Fontanesi and Chef Vijay Ittoo, Harmonie Restaurant- Dinarobin Hotel, Le Morne

• SAUDI ARABIA

Roberto Collini, Roberto's Restaurant, Khobar
Emanuele Esposito, Il Villaggio Complex, Jeddah-KSA

• SOUTH AFRICA

Giorgio Nava, Carne SA and 95 Keroom Restaurants, Cape Town
Stefano Strafella, Strafella´s Restaurant, Johannesburg *
Tony Rose, Tony´s Spaghetti Grill, Johanesburg

• TUNISIA

Moreno Goatin, Il Faro Restaurant, Djerba

• UNITED ARAB EMIRATES

Massimo Falsini, Ferrari World, Yas Island Abu Dhabi
Marco Legittimo, Mezzaluna Restaurant- Intercontinental, Dubai
Thomas Marchi, Filini Bar & Restaurant - Radisson Blu Hotel, Island Abu Dhabi

 

• CHINA

Giancarlo Biacchessi, Biscotti Restaurant- Sofitel Silver Plaza Hotel, Jinan
Armando Capochiani, Venexia Restaurant, Shanghai
Roberto Cimmino, Avanti Restaurant- Pan Pacific Hotel, Suzhou
Marino D'Antonio, Sureno Restaurant, Beijing
Armando Galantucci, Isola Bella Restaurant, Shanghai
Simonetta Garelli, Giovanni´s- Sheraton Hongqiao, Shanghai
Stefano de Geronimo, Prego Restaurant, Shanghai
Valter Gosatti, Rose Restaurant - Furama Hotel, Dalian
Marco Maggio, Prego Restaurant- Crowne Plaza Hotel & Suites Landmark, Shenzhen
Corrado Michelazzo, VaBene Restaurant, Xintiandi, Shanghai
Roberto Molinari, Rosso Italiano Restaurant, Shanghai
Stefano Pace, Acqua Restaurant- Gran Melia Hotel, Shanghai
Giovanni Parrella, Grand Hyatt, Beijing
Domenico Patruno, Alla Torre Restaurant, Shanghai
Vincenzo Pezzilli, Agrilandia Organic Farm and Casale Restaurant, Beijing
Antonio Puccini, Amore Italian Restaurant, Ningbo- Zhejiang
Samuele Rossi, Rossio Restaurant, MGM Grand Macau, Macau
Ilario Turri, Capri Restaurant at the Sheraton Dameisha Resort
Jennifer Prescott, Riviera Restaurant, Dalian *

• HONG KONG

Andrea Assenza, Habitu Restaurant at the Garden
Michele Camolei, Osteria Restaurant - Holiday Inn
Gianni Caprioli, Isola Restaurant, Hong Kong
Claudio Dieli, Mistral Restaurant - Intercontinental Grand Stanford
Sandro Falbo, Nicholini´s Restaurant - Conrad Hotel
Marco Furlan, Habitu The Pier Restaurant
Vittorio Lucariello, Angelini Restaurant - Shangri-la Hotel
Marco Medaglia, Aqua Restaurant, Hong Kong
Paolo Monti, Gaia Restaurant, Hong Kong
Luca Signoretti, Sabatini Restaurant
Marco Torre, Grissini Restaurant, Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, Hong Kong

• INDIA

David Bassan, Aloro Restaurant at the Oterra Hotel, Bangalore
Enrico Luise, Renaissance Restaurant - Marriott Hotel, Mumbai

• INDONESIA

Alessandro de Boni, Il Mare Restaurant - Mulia Hotel, Jakarta
Mario Caramella, Bali Hyatt Hotel, Sanur, Bali
Giordano Faggioli, Ristorante Sami Sami- Ayana Resort, Bali
Francesco Greco, Casa D' Oro Restaurant - Hotel Indonesia Kempinski, Jakarta
Antonio Massagli, Scusa Restaurant - Intercontinental Hotel, Jakarta
Massimo Sacco, Massimo Italian Restaurant, Sanur, Bali
Alessandro Santi, Shangri-La Hotel, Jakarta

• JAPAN

Bradley Callaghan, TK6 Cafe and Bar, Sapporo
Cristiano Pozzi, La Cucina Restaurant, Roppongi Minato-ku
Maurizio Roberti, Cinque Sensi Kobe Restaurant, Hagoromo-Cho Nishinomiya-City
Andrea Tranchero, Armani Restaurant, Tokyo
Giulio Vierci, Giulio´s Wine Bar Restaurant, Sapporo
Josef Budde, Grand Hyatt Tokyo, Tokyo *

• MACAU

Michele Dell´Aquila, Ristorante Aurora in the Altira Macau Hotel

• MALAYSIA

Claudio Cucchiarelli, Sunway Hotel and Resort, Kuala Lumpur
Bonaventura Mansi
, Hilton Hotel, Kuala Lumpur
Federico Michieletto, Santini Restaurant, Petaling Jaya

• MALDIVES

Aira Piva and Chef Leo Velazquez, Vakarufalhi Island Resort

• MONGOLIA

Luca Marchesi, The Ivy Restaurant, Ulaanbaatar

• PHILIPPINES

Marco Anzani, Anzani Restaurant and Bellini Bar, Cebu City, Philippines

• SINGAPORE

Carlo Marengoni, Bologna Restaurant- Marina Mandarin
Lino Sauro, Gattopardo Restaurant, Singapore

• SOUTH KOREA

Sebastiano Giangregorio, Antonio Vinoteca Italian Restaurant, Seoul
Franco Sommariva, Trattoria Jiina & Franco, Seoul
Sergio Zanetti, Toscana Restaurant- Renaissance Hotel, Seoul

• SRI LANKA

Aira Piva and Chef Leo Velazquez, Governor Restaurant- Mount Lavinia Hotel, Colombo

• TAIWAN

Armando Bonadonna, Beata Te’ Restaurant, Taipei
Dario Congera, Danieli´s Restaurant- Westin Hotel, Taipei

• THAILAND

Silvano Amolini, La Trattoria Restaurant- Dusit Thani Laguna, Phuket
Luca Appino, La Bottega di Luca Restaurant, Bangkok
Saulo Bacchilega, Figs Restaurant- Hyatt Regency, Hua Hin
Andreas Bonifacio, La Grappa Restaurant, Hua Hin
Francesco Cantiani, Duilio´s Restaurants, Bangkok
Fabio Colautti, Giusto Restaurant, Bangkok
Antonio Facchinetti, Brio Restaurant- Marriott Resort and Spa, Bangkok
Frederik Farina, Spasso Restaurant- Grand Hyatt Erwan, Bangkok
Gianni Favro, Gianni Restaurant, Bangkok
Luca Mancini, Cucina Restaurant - JW Marriott, Phuket
Flavio Manzoni, Il Tartufo Restaurant, Bangkok
Maurizio Menconi, Ristorante La Scala- Sukhothai Hotel, Bangkok
Gaetano Palumbo, Rossini Restaurant Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit
Gianmaria Zanotti, Zanotti, Vino di Zanotti & Limoncello Restaurants, Bangkok
Giuseppe Zanotti, Felicità Restaurant - Intercontinental Hua Hin Resort

• VIETNAM

Paolo Alabisio, Six Senses Hideaway - Ninh Van Bay, Nha Trang
Alberto Colombo, Good Morning Vietnam Restaurant, Hoi An
Michele Gulizzi, Opera Restaurant- Park Hyatt Hotel, Saigon

 

• AUSTRALIA

Antonio Demarco, Enzo´s, Adelaide *
Gianmaria Morelli, Palato Gelato, Noosa
Salvatore Pepe
, Cibo Espresso, Adelaide
Tom Robinson, Auge´Restaurant, Adelaide *
Tobias Gush, Chianti Classico, Adelaide *
Vincenzo La Montagna, Vincenzo´s Cuccina Vera, Adelaide *
Camillo Crugnale, Assaggio Restaurant, Adelaide *

• NEW ZEALAND

Cristiano de Martin, Hilton Auckland
Paolo Pancotti, Milk&Honey Restaurant, Napier Hawkes Bay

 

 

The International Day of Italian Cuisines: The Mission

International Day of Italian Cuisines

Our annual appeal to Italian culinary professionals and lovers of Italian food, at whatever longitude and latitude they may be, is a tradition by now. Thousands of them will join itchefs-GVCI on next January 17th to celebrate authentic Italian cuisine and to protect it from forgery and counterfeiting. The International Day of Italian Cuisines is born from a mission: "we certainly aim at educating worldwide consumers, but more than anything else, we want to protect their right to get what they pay for when going to eateries labelled as "Italian", that is: authentic and quality Italian cuisine." says Rosario Scarpato, GVCI Honorary President.

 

Tagliatelle with Bolognese ragù sauce, Tagliatelle al Ragù alla Bolognese: An authentic recipe by Mario Caramella, GVCI President

 

Mario Caramella

In Italy, there are several traditional recipes of Tagliatelle al ragù alla Bolognese with more or less slight variations and far too many individual interpretations of it. This recipe has been tailored mainly for all those non Italian chefs who aim at serving this traditional Italian dish abroad in a correct and professional way. The recipe however may be useful also to the many Italian chefs in Italy, as well as abroad, who are just as confused about it. It takes into account the basics of the various streams of the Italian tradition as well as the experience of many talented chefs, including many GVCI associates. I hope it will give you a clear direction and help you achieve a good result.

Mario Caramella

 

Ingredients per person

100 gm dry, egg dough tagliatelle
200 gm Bolognese ragù (see recipe ahead)
Grana Padano or Parmigiano Reggiano cheese freshly grated

Procedure

  • Cook the pasta in salted boiling water, strain when al dente, and place it in a hot pasta bowl or plate
  • Bring the sauce to boil and if too thick add little water from the pasta
  • Spoon the hot sauce over the steaming and fragrant tagliatelle and serve with the freshly grated cheese on the side
  • Put a spoon and a fork so the guests can mix their own pasta and put the right amount of grated cheese. This is the real and better way to enjoy this dish. The alternative is to sauté the pasta and the sauce in the kitchen and then serve it.
  • Do not decorate with basil leaves or chopped parsley, or even more gross with garlic bread on the side

*    *    *

Bolognese ragù sauce

 

To achieve a great result, this sauce should be made fresh every morning and be served within a few hours or the same day

Ingredients for 2 kg (approx) of Bolognese Ragù

600gm coarsely ground lean beef
400gm coarsely ground lean pork
200gm pancetta diced or chopped
100gm chopped onion
100gm carrot diced
100gm celery diced
1kg tomato peeled (canned)
300ml  dry white wine
500ml fresh milk
3 pc bay leaves
Black pepper and salt to taste

Procedure

  • Place the pancetta in a thick base large stainless steal saucepot (cm30x20) stir and cook over low flame until the fat is melted, add the onion and keep stirring until the onion is translucent
  • Add the carrot and celery and the bay leaves and keep cooking until the vegetables start to soften and get some colour,
  • Raise the flame to very high and add the ground meats,  previously mixed  and seasoned with salt and black pepper and mixed well, by hand ( wearing gloves!)
  • Keep cooking and stirring with a wooden spoon until the meat is well done
  • Pour in the white wine and keep cooking until the wine has evaporated
  • Process briefly the peeled tomatoes in the food mill and add to the pot and continue cooking slowly over a low flame for at least  2 hours, if it becomes too dry add some beef stock
  • Add some milk and some chicken stock, stir and leave to slow boiling at low flame
  • Keep going with the milk and the stock for 60 minutes at low flame
  • Season to taste and leave to rest

Notes

The traditional pasta that goes with Bolognese sauce are the tagliatelle, serving spaghetti with Bolognese sauce is actually a sign of mediocrity in the understanding of Italian cuisine

 

*    *    *

Tagliatelle

For the dough

1 kg pasta flour
8 whole fresh eggs

Procedure

  • Mix the flour and the eggs by hand or in the planetary mixing machine
  • Cover and leave the dough to rest in a cool place for 2 hours
  • Roll out the dough, with a rolling pin if you have the know-how, or use the pasta machine, cut the tagliatelle with a knife or by using a proper cutter
  • Arrange in a traditional nest shape and leave to dry

Note

If you do not have the right flour, the know-how, the right environment, do not make your own pasta!!! You’d better use an Italian industrial product, which is actually good and will give you good results and a consistent standard. Please do not pre-cook the pasta and do keep it always al dente!!! so many times we read on menus the very proud statement ,  “home made pasta” and than we are served mediocre, broken, overcooked and tasteless pasta, made with the wrong flour and dried in the wrong environment; generally the result of hard exercise that should have been avoided. Also, avoid those fresh, locally made, gourmet pasta products that are usually very average and made by incompetents!

 

Tagliatelle al ragù alla Bolognese: the dictionary

 

What is important to know about Tagliatelle al Ragù alla Bolognese according some prestigious food writers and gastronomers:

 

AUTHENTIC RECIPE

Ragù alla Bolognese
National Recipe Books of Regional Cuisines issued by the
Italian Culinary Academy

Experts tend to credit the one registered by the Accademia Italiana della Cucina in 1982 as the most authentic one. It took 38 years of lengthy research and discussions among the members of the Academy and it includes the two basic components: fresh egg tagliatelle pasta and ragù. A traditional recipe of ragù, slightly different from the Academia’s one, is presented by Margherita e Valeria Simili, perhaps the most popular cooks in Bologna in the last 40 years, in their book, Sfida al matterello (Challenge for the Rolling Pin). The home-cooking style of the legendary Simili Sisters is part of the heritage of the peasant housewives of the past. The slight variations between some of the traditional recipes are to be considered physiological, given the characteristics of Italy, where within a few kilometres there may be relevant changes of customs and traditions. In addition, ragù was born in an area –Emilia– the capital of which is Bologna, but includes many other cities such as Imola, Modena, Parma, and a multitude of villages.

 

BEEF

Ragù alla Bolognese
The beef used for the ragù is
finta cartella (flank brisket)
Ragù alla Bolognese
Cartella (thin skirt)
Ragù alla Bolognese

There is a whole school of thought for which beef is the only meat in ragù alla bolognese. The recipe copyrighted by the Accademia Italiana della Cucina includes only beef. Veteran chefs in Bologna, as Mauro Fabbri, of the traditional restaurant Diana, categorically exclude the use of pork (see "pork" in this same article). There was a specific beef (not veal) cut for ragù. In the recipe registered by the Accademia is the cartella (thin skirt), which is the muscle that separates the lungs from the stomach of the animal. It’s juicy, tender and has little fat. In reality, the meat commonly used if that of Finta Cartella (Pancia), flank brisket, which if rather fatty and requires long cooking. It is likely that originally the meat for ragù was cut into small pieces and not minced.

 

 

 

 

 

CHEESE

Ragù alla Bolognese

Grated Parmigiano Reggiano or Grana Padano are optional, they are not included in the old recipe books, but both cheeses are commonly present on Italian tables.

 

 

 

 

 

 

CHICKEN LIVER (and other giblets)

Ragù alla Bolognese
The Simili sisters

In the past, chicken giblets were included in ragù as well: heart, kidney and liver, ingredients with a strong flavour that are no longer liked by the modern palate; what a pity!. Of these ingredients only the liver has survived and, please, do not eliminate it. If you don’t like it, use less, just a half, but include it because in such a small quantity you will not detect it but it really fills out the flavour by giving it more body.” – quote from the entry “Il Ragù Bolognese” in the book Sfida al Matterello by Valeria and Margherita Simili. The inclusion of giblets should not be a surprise, since it was also common in French ragouts as in the financière.

 

COOKING TIME

Ragù alla Bolognese
Working oxes

Traditional ragù alla bolognese was cooked slowly for hours, four on average and up to five o six. According to Marcela Hazan (The Classic Italian Cookbook), “the longer, the better.” There was at least one reason for this long cooking: the meat was very tough, usually from aged animals, not seldom, from ten-year-old cows, having worked in the fields and sacrificed when they could work no more. Today, the quality of the meat is much better, so between two and three hours is the right cooking time. The peasant housewives used to put the ragù on the woodstove and then to go to work in the fields. Furthermore, in Italy, in the past, extended families were common and the giant pot of sauce to feed them required hours and hours of simmering to cook all the way through.

 

HERBS (spices, garlic)

There are no herbs, no bay leaf, no parsley, no thyme, in the traditional ragù alla bolognese, nor is there garlic, in fact in the whole cuisine of Emilia Romagna the use of garlic is very scant. There is no chilli, nor were there any spices. Some recipes call for the use of a little nutmeg.

 

MILK (AND CREAM)

Ragù alla Bolognese

All the traditional recipes contain milk, including the one given by Anna Gosetti della Salda, in her first edition of Le ricette regionali italiane in 1967. Meat was tough in the past and milk breaks down its fibres. Furthermore, milk was widely available in the agricultural families of Emilia, while tomatoes were not (see "tomatoes" in this same article). Chef Giuliano Tassinari, GVCI associate and Emilia Romagna cuisine ambassador remembers that Bruno Tasselli, who, for 54 years, was the chef at "Pappagallo", the most renowned restaurant in Bologna during the last century, always added milk to his ragù. “The old-time chefs used the pannetta’, the cream that topped the milk, after being boiled, to give the ragù a touch of sweetness,” says Giuliano, who worked with Tasselli in the Seventies of last century.

Ragù alla Bolognese

Marcela Hazan, in her Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking, recommends adding and cooking down the wine before doing the same with the milk. There were areas in Emilia Romagna, as Ferrara, where milk was not used also for religious reasons: many Jews were established in the city and its surrounding and mixing meat with milk is not kosher. Some time ago, an American food writer wrote that “Artusi (Pellegrino, the author of The Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well) suggests that you may want to stir half a cup of whipping cream into the ragù just before you pour it over the pasta.” This is wrong, Artusi did not include Tagliatelle al ragù bolognese in his recipe book but rather Maccheroni alla bolognese, made with dried pasta and a sauce having only some resemblance to the classic ragù (and which didn’t contain tomatoes at all).

 

ORIGINS

Ragù alla Bolognese

The origins of ragù alla bolognese are unclear. Some authors, including Lynne Rossetto Kasper, the author of The Italian Country Table, “traced the ragus of Emilia-Romagna at least as far back as the 16th century, to the wealthy courts of noble families.” This explains also the reason for which ragù is not a tomato based sauce. Tomatoes were not known and, therefore, not used in Italy in the 16th century. Indeed the origins of the Bolognese ragù are related to those of the French ragoût, a stew of ingredients reduced to small pieces, which became popular in the 18th century (see "ragù" in this same article).

 

PANCETTA

Ragù alla Bolognese

Pancetta (called also ‘carnesecca’ in the past) was probably the only fat that was used for starting the cooking of ragù. Butter was probably added at a later stage, and perhaps for this reason it is not included in the recipe registered by the Academia Italiana della Cucina. Olive oil is an even more recent and rather improper addition found particularly outside of Italy.

 

PORK

Ragù alla Bolognese

Pork is likely to be another relatively recent addition to ragù alla bolognese. As we have seen, for many authors, beef (see "beef" in this same article) was the only meat of the recipe. This is socially and historically grounded; up to the end of World War II, Italy was an agricultural and generally poor country. Many people used to see meat on their tables only at Christmas and Easter; the luckiest ate it on Sundays or on religious feasts. They would hardly have used pork and beef at the same time. More likely, pork was introduced to rich families or to festive cooking. Emilia has historically been an area that consumes huge quantities of pork, in the form of salami, prosciutto, culatello, mortadella, pancetta, zampone etc. Fresh minced pork meat, handled as in the “new” recipe for ragù alla bolognese, was rare in the past. It’s interesting that in some recipe books veal is presented as an alternative to pork.

 

RAGÙ

Ragù alla Bolognese

The word comes from the French ‘ragôut, a noun derived from the verb ragoûter, which means to wake up or better to wet the appetite, to revive the taste, to give more taste. Ragôut is a hearty stew including one or more principal ingredients (meat, fish, game, vegetables), cut into small pieces and cooked very slowly in some fat over low heat. In the past ragouts were cooked over the fire or on a closed woodstove and very much sought after in rich families. “Somewhere along the line, the French stew became the Italian sauce, and the rich families’ meat-heavy banquet food became the peasant's method of extracting every last bit of flavour from scarce meat scraps.” Another famous ragù in Italian cuisine is ragù alla napoletana, which is based on meat and tomato sauce. In Italian cuisine ragù is in any case considered a festive, celebratory, dish.

 

TAGLIATELLE ALL´UOVO

Ragù alla Bolognese

‘Tagliatelle’ simply means cut pasta and are long flat ribbons made from the ‘sfoglia’ or ‘leaves’, of egg-and-flour dough. They belong to the family of fresh pastas that includes fettuccine, tagliolini, pappardelle, lasagne, tortellini etc, which are an important part of the culinary traditions of Northern Italy and particularly the Region of Emilia Romagna. True tagliatelle are 8mm wide (according to the Bologna-based Apostles of Tagliatelle) and cooked should be wider than the 2270th part of the famous Asinelli Tower in Bologna. In the 14th century tagliatelle already appear in a pictorial representation of the Tacuinum Sanitatis, which was an 11th century health manual. Something very similar to tagliatelle (fermentini) is also described in the Compendium de naturis et proprietatibus alimentorum, a list of foods from Emilia compiled in 1338 by Barnaba de Ritinis da Reggio di Modena.

Ragù alla Bolognese
An image from the Tacuinum Sanitatis

According to the legend, tagliatelle were invented in 1487 by Maestro Zafirano, a cook from the village of Bentivoglio, on the occasion of the marriage of Lucrezia Borgia to the Duke of Ferrara. One of the most important figures of the Emilian cuisine is the so called sfoglina, the woman who prepared the dough (sfoglia) and cut tagliatelle as well as fettuccine, lasagne, tortellini and other home made fresh pasta. In old restaurants sfognine worked in the shop-window so that people walking along the streets could see them.

 

TOMATO

Ragù alla Bolognese

The presence of tomato in ragù alla bolognese should be very limited. There is a general concurrence that ragù was born as a meat sauce (or ‘sugo’), as its close relative, the sauce that Pellegrino Artusi describes in his Maccheroni alla bolognese recipe, in which there is no tomato at all. 20 grams of triple concentrated tomato paste –the equivalent of 5 spoons of tomato sauce– for 300 grams of beef and 150 grams of pancetta is the proportion endorsed by the Accademia in its recipe.

 

 

TERRA COTTA (OR ‘COCCIO’)

Ragù alla Bolognese

"His Majesty Ragù must be treated with extreme care. Some time ago, he was prepared in terra cotta pots that were broad and rather low and were placed on top of the embers. The ‘coccio’ and the strong and homogeneous heat of the embers ensured that the meat was ‘rosolato’ or sautéed without it loosing its juices and thus remained tasty and tender. Therefore, in order to reproduce this excellent ‘rosolatura’ or sautéing, we start our ragù in a pot and then transfer it to a terra cotta pot so that it achieves its necessary ‘rosolatura’.” – quote from the entry “Il Ragù Bolognese” in the book Sfida al Matterello by Valeria and Margherita Simili.

 

Rosario Scarpato

 

Tagliatelle al ragù Bolognese, the official dish of the IDIC 2010

 

Ragù alla Bolognese

The dish of the next International Day of Italian Cuisines (IDIC) will be Tagliatelle al ragù alla bolognese.  Hundreds of Italian chefs around the world will repeat on January 17th 2010 the ola of the last two years, when the dishes to be celebrated and protected were Carbonara and Risotto alla Milanese. Tagliatelle al ragù, originally and icon of the city of Bologna and its surroundings, is by now one of the most popular dishes of Italian Cuisine and therefore the most counterfeited around the world. “We want to let Italian food lovers all around the world know how to cook and enjoy a quality authentic tagliatelle al ragù which, in the majority of the cases, has nothing to do with the awful, wrongly called ‘bolognaise sauces’”, says Bali based GVCI’s President Mario Caramella. The International Day of Italian Cuisines is born out of the mission of both educating worldwide consumers to enjoy authentic and quality Italian cuisine and protecting their right to get what they pay for when going to eateries labelled as “Italian”. Organized by itchefs-gvci.com the International Day of Italian Cuisines promises to be an exciting and successful world wide event, as the last two editions were.

 
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