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Sfogliatelle



Sfogliatella Riccia & Sfogliatella Frolla: The authentic recipes

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Take a look at the step by step authentic recipes of both the Sfogliatella Riccia and the Sfogliatella Frolla executed by pastry chef Francesco Elmi:

Sfogliatella riccia

Ingredients for the Sfogliatella dough

1000 gr flour, high-gluten
350 gr water
15 gr salt
40 gr honey
400 gr lard or butter, at room temperature.
Photos 1 & 2

Procedure, sfogliatella dough

Knead the flour with the water, honey and salt for around 20 minutes. The dough is firm.
Photos 3.Cover with plastic wrap and let rest in the fridge for at least 2 hours.
Spread the dough till as thin as possible, the thinner it is, the crunchier it will be. Photos 4 & 5

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Rub the sheet of dough with the lard (or with the butter), use a spatula or brush to spread it
more. Photos 6.Roll up the dough Photo 7 into a single roll,Photos 8, cut off any extending
pieces in order to obtain a cylindrical shape. Photos 9

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Cover with plastic wrap and let rest in the fridge for at least an hour. Photos 10
Cut the cylinder in slices approximately 1 cm thick; Photos 11, using your fingers form the
shape of the sfogliatella; Photos 12, place filling in the dough and close the sfogliatella with
light pressure. Photos 13

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Place the sfogliatelle on a baking pan covered with baking paper, Photo 14 bake at 200°C for
approximately 20 minutes.Photo 15

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Ingredients for the filling

Water 280gr
Semolina  90gr
Ricotta 300gr
Sugar  150gr
Eggs 100gr
Candied fruit in cube  100gr
Cinnamon, a pinch
Salt, a pinch

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Procedure, filling

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Bring the water, salt and vanilla to a boil. Photo 17.
Add the semolina and boil 4-5 minutes. Photos 18 & 19
Heat the eggs to lukewarm and add to the above mixture, Photo 20 and then the other ingredients. Photos 21 & 22

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Sfogliatella Frolla

Ingredients

Flour, low-gluten 400gr
Butter 200gr
Water, cold  10gr
Sugar 100gr
Egg yolk 40gr
1 or 2 pods vanilla

Photo 1

Procedure, dough

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Press the flour with the unmelted butter, vanilla and a little cold water through fingers until “sand-like.” Photo 2
Add the sugar and egg yolks. Photo 3
Knead and place in the fridge for at least 2 hours. Photo 4

Ingredients for filling

Water    280gr
Semolina    90gr
Ricotta    300gr
Sugar   150gr
Eggs     100gr
Candied fruit in cube 100gr
Cinnamon, a pinch
Salt, a pinch

Photo 5

Procedure, filling

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Bring the water sugar, salt and vanilla to a boil. Photo 6.
Add the semolina and cook 4-5 minutes. Photos 7 & 8
Heat the eggs to lukewarm, Photo 9 and then the other ingredients. Photos 10 & 11

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Preparation, sfogliatelle

Spread the frolla dough out till it is 4 mm thick, then cut with a dough cutter, 10 cm in
diameter. Photo 12. Wet the edges with water. Photo 13
Place the filling in the centre Photo 14 and close. Photo 15
Bake at 180° for 20 minutes.
For 10-12 portions Photo 16

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Recipes Editor and La Vita è Dolce Worldwide Tour Coordinator: Elena Ruocco.

Photos: Paolo Della Corte- FOOD REPUBLIC

 

Sfogliatelle: four hundred years of history but still fresh and hot

They are unquestionably the sweet symbol of one of the most representative cities of Italy, Naples, the capital of the Region of Campania and, for a while, of the Kingdom of two Sicily. Outside Italy, though, they are seen as a quintessential part of the whole pasticceria italiana: the sfogliatelle.

The queen is undoubtedly the sfogliatella riccia (curly), made with a soft, flaky dough, similar to puff pastry or phyllo and filled with a mixture of ricotta, semolina, sugar, cinnamon, eggs and some candied citrus and/or other fruit.


Luciano Pignataro

Its sister, on the other hand, is known as “frolla” (smooth), and no one to date has established for sure where this name comes from.”Perhaps for the same mysterious and recurrent reason for which some food takes a name without any rational explanation,” says Luciano Pignataro, a prominent Italian food and wine writer, author of The sweet of Naples (I dolci Napoletani), interviewed by itchefs-gvci.com. Riccia and frolla have two cousins as well. One is the “Santa Rosa”, a riccia to which some confectionary custard cream and wild cherries in syrup are added.The other is the “Coda d’aragosta”, because of its shape similar to a lobster tail, which has a beignet inside, filled with custard.

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Sfogliatella Frolla

Controversial origins

Outside Italy, sfogliatelle, riccia and frolla in particular, are more famous in the countries where Italian immigrants arrived: Germany and other parts of Europe, South America, Australia and the United States. In the last-mentioned, they have even “appeared” in popular shows, such as in The Sopranos, which has swollen their fame even more. By the way, the word sfogliatella in Italian means a composition of leaves or layers stacked one on top of the other.



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Sfogliatella Santa Rosa

As for many other Italian sweets, and particularly those that are part of La Vita è Dolce, the origins of sfogliatelle are not documented, therefore, are often controversial. “Sfogliatella was born in a convent in Campania and grew up in a pastry shop in Via Toledo, in Naples,” adds Pignataro.
Yes, a convent, but which one? “The recipe was elaborated on the Amalfi Coast, in the splendid Santa Rosa convent, in Conca dei Marini, in the Province of Salerno,” states Luciano without hesitating. From there, apparently they arrived in Naples.
This, however, is only one version. Indeed, there is an opposing one, according to which sfogliatelle were born in Naples and eventually travelled to the Province of Salerno. More specifically they were born in the Carmelite convent of Santa Croce di Lucca, in the heart of the City of Naples, at beginning of the 17th century.

Born out of leftovers

In both cases, Naples and Conca dei Marini, the legend of what happened is roughly the same: “A nun in the kitchen had some leftovers of semolina cooked in milk,” says Pignataro, who, among other things, is one of the best connoisseurs of Southern Italian wines. He adds: “The nun added some candied dried fruit, sugar and ricotta, wrapped the filling between two puff pastries softened with lard and baked it.” The shape of this new sweet was that of a monk’s hood.

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Conca de Marini

This, quite possibly, was the scenario of what happened in Naples, where each convent, at that time, was famous for one or more sweets made by its nuns; the Santa Chiara one for sour cherries in syrup (marasche) and preserved pears, Santa Maria di Costantinopoli for Genoese sponge and San Marcellino for “casatielli,” a local sweet. According to the same tradition, the Santa Croce di Lucca convent was famous for the recipe of sfogliatelle.
The majority of these recipes, however, were secret; the nuns were forbidden to have contact with the external world. Rare exceptions were granted to nuns belonging to praiseworthy families. In Santa Croce di Lucca, the only nuns allowed to receive family visits, were the daughters of the powerful Prince Cellamare, who had made a huge donation to the convent. The recipe of sfogliatella, it’s said, left the walls of the convent after one these visits and travelled up to the then remote Conca de Marini, which at that time was very distant from the Capital. There, according to tradition, the nuns of Santa Rosa adapted the recipe of sfogliatella, adding custard cream and wild cherries in syrup to the riccia, and naming it after their Saint.

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Santa Rosa Convent - Conca de Marini

The boom of riccia in Naples and in the world
Apparently, for long time, the respective versions of the sfogliatella remained closed in both convents. In Naples, the riccia became famous when, at the end of the second decade of the 19th century, a former innkeeper, Pasquale Pintauro, converted his establishment in via Toledo, a very elegant area of Naples, into a pastry shop.
Pintauro changed the shape, the hood-shaped protuberance was eliminated, and sfogliatella riccia turned into a rococo shell,” adds Pignataro.

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Pintauro

For decades, Pintauro and his heirs were the makers of the best sfogliatelle in Naples, which by the way, must be eaten very hot. The house, no longer in the hands of the Pintauro family, still exists and makes excellent sfogliatelle.
It’s very hard to find authentic sfogliatelle outside Italy, although, many restaurants have included them on their menu, on the dessert list. Discerning diners will find that they have been reduced in size and are presented with attractive decorations. “The fact is that sfogliatella is still a sweet to be eaten in the morning, alone,” says Luciano who doesn’t think that – in Italy at least – this traditional regional Italian sweet has lost appeal. “They’ve never lost their popularity, otherwise it would be very hard to find them, and industry would have stopped the large-scale production of the frozen ones.”

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I dolci Napoletani – cover

What’s the secret of the perfect “riccia?” “Listen, firstly the harmony of textures; the crunchiness of the pastry, the smoothness of the filling, the heat, the perfumes of the candied fruits and the cinnamon,” answers Luciano. What would you drink with it? “Definitely a Marsala Superiore Riserva (my favourite is Donna Franca).” The worse riccia you have ever seen? “One with a very sweet cream. Authentic sfogliatelle are good because are not so sweet.
Sfogliatelle has become a technique also used in Italian contemporary cuisine with savoury fillings.

 

Super sfogliatelle in Hong Kong (VIDEO)

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The protagonists of La Vita è Dolce this week are the Chef Vittorio Lucariello (photo left) in Hong Kong and his authentic sfogliatelle, as those made by Francesco Elmi in the step by step video recipe of this week. Chef Lucariello is the Italian chef of the Angelini Restaurant, in the Shangri La Hotel, in Kowloon. Vittorio has Neapolitan blood in his veins, so his interpretation of sfogliatelle is particularly passionate. On his menu this week Vittorio included the three classic versions of sfogliatelle: riccia, frolla and Santa Rosa (with wild cherries in syrup, the world famous amarene).

Chef Lucariello started his culinary career at the age of 14, when he entered the Istituto Alberghiero di Aversa

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Vittorio´s Sfogliatella Riccia
cooking school, near Naples.

He has been in the kitchens of several established restaurants in Italy, including the three-star Michelin restaurant Don Alfonso on the Amalfi Coast, in the United States as well as in reputable restaurants of international hotel chains. Before arriving at the Angelini in 2007, Vittorio was chef de cuisine of another great Italian Restaurant, in Hong Kong – Grissini in the Grand Hyatt.

With over 20 years of culinary experience, Chef Vittorio brings a fresh approach to all the different regional fare found within Italian cuisine, combining fresh authentic ingredients with traditional techniques.

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Vittorios´s Sfogliatella Frolla

He is a firm believer in cooking using the freshest ingredients, without heavy sauces but with an emphasis on maintaining the natural flavours of the ingredients. For this reason the clientele of the Angelini, which commands superb views of Victoria Harbour, is made up of local and international gourmet guests as well as Italian expats and travelers. Vittorio has always paid attention to desserts, preferring the authentic Italian, although presented in an innovative way.

 


Angelini has a Dessert Platter

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Sfogliatelle Santa Rosa by Vittorio Lucariello

consisting of the classic Cannoli, Homemade Hazelnut Ice Cream and Cherry Sponge Cake. Customers appreciate the fact that even when they have big meals they don’t feel overly full. This is due to Victorio’s ability to serve food that retains the natural essence of the ingredients and is flavourful yet at the same time the finished dish is light.

 

 

 

 

 

Sfogliatelle Santa Rosa by Vittorio Lucariello